VGUNetwork - Tutorials: Texture and Modelling Tutorials

Rigging models from XNALara with Blender, part 2

Mon, 14 Nov 2011 22:40:41 +0000

Ok, I'm back. Because I'm feeling a little embarrassed that I started the first part of the tutorial with a model whose textures I don't know how to work with, I'm going to challenge myself in this second part and rig a big, bulky model. It will be a test because assigning the proper bone weight will be difficult--but not impossible. To me, it seems modding is a constant learning process. So what model is it going to be? Rumbler from Bioshock 2!

There are two advantages to this model. First, it is a full-body model. This means we don't have to worry about working in any part from the default Fallout body. The second is that it's way cool looking and I'm excited to run through fiend territory in it and rip faces off.

Of course, there is also the disadvantage of not working in the default Fallout body. You'll have to seek that information elsewhere, or wait until I post a supplemental tutorial.

So, without further delay...

STEP 5: Getting your textures applied.

In NifSkope, we saw that Sub Zero, and now the Rumbler, appear fully white. This is because NifSkope thinks there is a .dds file in the Fallout data folder... but there isn't. So let's get the textures in a place where Fallout will recognize and use them.

1. Here I've expanded all the NiTriStrips to the place where your texture files are applied. You can see that NifSkope is looking for "protectorspf_rimshader.dds." No texture is displayed on the model, however, because the dds doesn't exist yet. So, pay close attention because I haven't taken screenshots of all the steps involved here. You have to do the following:

(I) In Windows Explorer, go to your XNALara data folder and open the folder with your model in it. All the texture files you need (and more) will be in that folder.
(II) Create a copy of these texture files and place them in your Fallout data\textures folder in a place you'll be able to find them easily.
(III) Using DDS converter, convert all the diffuse textures to dds format from whichever format they were originally found (tga, png, bmp, etc).
(IV) Rename the files to a more standard Fallout format. I've chosen "protector.dds"
(V) In the Block Details window, change the texture file to the dds you've just created.

2. When you've done this for all NiTriStrips and all necessary textures, you'll see your fully textured model.
3. Go ahead and save over your old .nif with your new one that has correct texture paths.
4. Go back to Blender, start with a clean slate, and import the .nif using the settings show here (these are the default settings).

Note: Picture 4 above is actually two screens.

STEP 5b: A note about normals

You may have noticed that I have applied the normals in the above photos even though I only said to convert the diffuse textures. This is because the normals require a little more work. The normals for most games look like this (thanks to rexil for the pic):

Fallout's normals, however, are significantly more opaque than this. If you don't edit the normals, your final product will be much, much too shiny. The solution for this is simple. Before converting the normals to dds format, open them up in GIMP.

1. This is the original normal map.
2. Slide the opacity down to anywhere between 8 - 12. This is what I find works best though you may vary things with experience.

Now, save and convert the new normal to the dds you will use.

This wraps up all the texture work you will have to do. If you have a character with hair or exposed skin, there will be further steps. We don't have to worry about those for our Rumbler though.

STEP 6: Back to Blender--Sizing, Scaling, Rotating

Now comes the more challenging parts. Everything up to this point has been rather cut and dry. Scaling your model and making fit the Fallout skeleton just right requires a good bit of precision and patience. The more you try, the better you'll become.

You'll need to have used the BSA Browser tool in Fallout Mod Manager to have your main Fallout files (bsas) extracted for this next step.

1. Using the default import from step 5 above, you'll have your model in Blender. Hit "D" on the keyboard and you can choose to view your image with your textures. These viewing modes are good to flip and back forth between depending on what you're doing at the moment. For now, I like to work with visible textures.
2. Go into your Fallout data folder, go to meshes\characters\_male and import the upperbody.

NOTE: The file path I have chosen here is characters1 because of a glitch in the way Fallout runs. When you have your files unpacked, the game runs from the unpacked files rather than the default files in the bsa. For whatever reason, running from the unpacked characters folder causes the game to display the obnoxious clipping of the foreheads through everyone's hair. Renaming the characters folder eliminates this problem because it causes the game to run from the bsa again.

3. Using the same default settings as with our first import, we now have the upperbody ready to work with. It's much larger than our Rumbler, so let's change that...
4a. Select all your Rumbler parts and hit "S" to scale them. Increase the size now until it's proportional to the upperbody.
4b. You can also hit "R" then "Z" to rotate the Rumbler on the z axis (the one going up and down), or hit "N" to bring up the properties menu and rotate the parts to the exact degree.

As you can see, things look a little weird. This is where the challenge for me will take place. I'm going to need to size the arms closer to the Fallout body arms without making it look too unlike the Rumbler. Otherwise, any sort of in-game animation is going to look very off.

First though, let's delete the skeleton and meatcaps from the Fallout body. We don't need those yet. Then let's join together the body to the underwear.

1. Click anyone of these little lines poking out and you'll highlight all of them. Hit "X" and choose to delete the skeleton.
2. Do the same thing with the meatcaps. You'll need to do this a couple times because there are multiple sets of meatcaps. Note: The meatcaps are what show on the model when it gets hit by a Fat Man and body parts fly everywhere.
3. This screen shows your body and Rumbler ready to go... This is after I've clicked on the Rumbler and hit "H" to hide it, deleted the meatcaps on the neck, and hit "Alt" + "H" to unhide the Rumbler again.
4. I've clicked the boxers and the body only, hit "Ctrl" + "J" and I will select to join them together.

I've also done the same joining to the various parts of the Rumbler.

STEP 7: Moving, scaling, and positioning of specific parts.

Before we move into anything too complicated, you need to know some basic functions of Blender. In case you're inexperienced with Blender, you should know...

- Hit "Tab" to move between Object Mode (where you begin by default) over to Edit Mode (where we'll need to be to manipulate individual or small groups of vertices, or to join vertices)
- Hit "Ctrl" + "L" in Edit Mode to select all linked vertices to the one you have selected
- Hit "Alt" + "M" to join two vertices together
- Hit "B" to bring up the option to selected multiple objects or vertices (depending on the mode you're in); Hit and hold "B" to bring up a different selection tool.
- Hit "Ctrl" + "I" to invert your selection

1. We have moved over to Edit Mode. Here you see that one part of the original mesh is selected while the vertices of a separate part are not selected. I have them highlighted in this way so that you can see where we will need to join the vertices. This will save you A LOT of time and hassle if you do this properly. (We'll need to separate them again later, but never mind that for now)
2. I've clicked one of the vertices that overlaps between the two separate parts of the mesh. The lines highlighted in yellow indicate the vertices connected to the selected vertex.
3. I've held the Shift key while clicking in the same area again allowing me to select a second vertex in the same location.
4. These vertices overlap, so let's join them in order to create a single body of our Rumbler that will be easier to manipulate. Hit "Alt" + "M" to bring up the merge option screen. Join them at the center (it doesn't matter too much because they overlap. You can choose other options with other models as you need to.)
5. I've repeated this process all the way around the arm so that we have joined the arm completely to the rest of the body.

From this last screen, I'm going to attempt to size and position the Rumbler's arm. The Rumbler is only slightly humanoid in its shape so this will require some precision on my part if it is going to look right in game.

After sizing and scaling the arm, I'll repeat the process for all other parts of the body. This is where I'll pick up in Part 3. I've got work to do...

Rigging models from XNALara with Blender, part 1

Mon, 14 Nov 2011 18:38:11 +0000

Note: In part 1 of this tutorial, I'm using a model I will probably not use in Part 2. Why? Because it seems the textures from Mortal Kombat use some combination of diffuse, normal, and specular maps that I'm unfamiliar with. When I got to step 5 in this tutorial, things didn't happen the way they have for all the past models I've rigged using the methods I describe. Rather than add the unnecessary steps of making these textures work, I'll just begin in part 2 where I leave off, but with a different model. I'm posting this anyway because putting a tutorial together is a lot of work and I don't want this to go to waste; I was taking these screenshots as I went before running into the texture problem. No worries though--this method is tried and true. You'll see with part 2.

Hello everyone. This is my first tutorial; I'm going to write this assuming that you have the programs you need, but not much else.

Our first step is a basic one--to rig a model you need a model to rig! So what's it going to be? This tutorial will walk you through the process of my rigging the hooded Sub Zero model from the XNALara recapitulation. There are a lot of great models available there from games you probably like.

Step 1: Let's open XNALara and pull up our model

1. This is your XNALara starting position. Go to file..
2. Click add model(s)
3. Find the model you want and hit OK
4. This is your model in XNALara
5. When you move your mouse over the bones in the model, they will become highlighted. The names you see correspond to the list in the control window.

Now you've got your model ready for adjustments. Here, Sub Zero is posed to (what I assume is) the default position for the Mortal Kombat skeleton. The Fallout skeleton's default position is a little different so we need to adjust the model. If we don't, it will complicate things down the road. So let's find the bones we need and adjust accordingly.

STEP 2: Adjust your chosen model

1. Find the bone you need to move.
2. Move until it is approximately in the Fallout skeleton position
3. Repeat with all the necessary bones
4. When you're done adjusting, go to File and click to export scene as an .obj file. Save the file anywhere you'll be able to find it easily.

Note: With this particular model, the arms are the only thing that really need to move. The hands would require adjusting if we wanted to keep the skin the same, but we'll be replacing the skin with the Fallout default body eventually. Also, the cloths in front and back would need to move, but it will be easier to move this particular piece in Blender (trust me, you'll see).

Okay, now you're done with XNALara. It's time to open up Blender.

STEP 3: Import your .obj into Blender

1. This is the default starting point for my version of Blender. The first thing I want to do is get rid of those useless dummy objects. Make sure your mouse is in the 3d viewer window with the objects, hit "A" twice to highlight them all, then hit delete.
2. Now move up to File...
3. Go down to import, and import .obj
4. Move to the directory where you stored the .obj from the exported scene in our last XNALara step, then find the .obj file and click on it, then click to import the .obj

Now an import screen will pop up in which you specify the details of how the .obj will be imported. Make sure you use the following settings:

1. This box shows your export settings
2. Once imported, your .obj will look something like this. Relatively small, positioned as you exported it, and not in great view of the camera.

Now we need to move the camera, focus in on the .obj, and get it looking decent before we really start to work with it.

1. Now we're centered on the model, but none of its parts are considered "active"
2. ... so we click on just one of the parts to flag one active. Clicking anywhere on the model will work
3. Now hit "A" twice to select all parts of the model. Things look the same as in (1) but now all the parts are considered active. You can now click on Set Smooth
4. And your model now looks much better

From here, it is possible to remove all double vertices as this tutorial shows, but occasionally you will run into problems with parts of the model being removed that aren't double. So it's up to you. I'm not going to remove the doubles in this instance just yet. I may want to, but it will help if we can see the textures on the model first. Don't bother changing the draw type--the model will appear totally black.

STEP 4: Export as nif

This is a step that simply shows my way of doing things. It is not necessary that you do exactly this, but I find it convenient, i.e., it is my preferred way. With a little experience, you may find you like the do things differently. In any case, let's do as the step title says and export the model as a .nif

1. Click File and export as nif
2. Move to the directory from within your Fallout data folder from which you will work. I've chosen to save the file as "SubZeroNoWeight" because we have not yet assigned any bone weights to the model. You'll need to click on the export button twice before moving to the next screen...
3. These are the export settings that work for me. I don't have a clue what they all mean. I'm simply working with the direction I found in this tutorial. In this screen I've also highlighted the line which you can drag up and down to change the positioning of your screens. This little detail was frustrating to figure out for me as a beginner because I could never find the OK button. Hopefully you're much smarter than me though and will never run into that problem Go ahead and click OK once your settings are correct.
4. Now open up NifSkope and open the nif you just created.

Now that we're in NifSkope, we can begin to add on the correct textures in a way Fallout can recognize and use. All the textures you'll need will be back in the original data folder you loaded the model from in XNALara. NifSkope thinks we're working with textures that don't exist in the path it's working from so no textures yet appear on the model. Let's change that.

STEP 5: Apply your basic textures

This is where things didn't work for the Sub Zero model. I'll be using a new model in part 2, but all steps up to this point will be the same.

Until next time...

How to add pictures to the PipBoy-Readius

Tue, 01 Nov 2011 21:52:12 +0000

Any questions? Msg me
I'm doing requests- if you want a picture on your readius but you don't want to download everything that is required ask me for help (:.

How to RIG armor in 3D max - video tutorial

Sat, 01 Oct 2011 12:04:59 +0000

Here my second video tutorial.In this video i show you how to RIG armor an prepare her to export in Nif Scope

Download video from here:

1.http://narod.ru/disk...torial.rar.html

or

2.http://www.megaupload.com/?d=FWN63851

Creating new Weapon Model in 3d max(Video Tutorial)

Fri, 30 Sep 2011 16:39:38 +0000

So here my video tutorial,how to create new weapon model in 3d max.I think you'll like it, and soon you will learn to make your own models, trust me - it's easy.But if you have any questions - you can always contact me

Total video time - 40 - 45 minutes

Download Link:

From here http://narod.ru/disk...0Tutor.rar.html

of from here http://www.filefacto...VIdeo_Tutor.rar

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P.S.Soon create video tutorial how to RIG armor in 3d max

Weapon Texturing Guide

Fri, 30 Sep 2011 12:25:38 +0000

Weapon Texturing Guide

This is a PDF of a guide to texturing weapons in Photoshop. It features all the previous subjects I have discussed in past tutorials, as well as a lot more here. The proper creation of normal maps and specular maps are also covered in this guide, something I feel is not very well discussed on many forums.

This guide assumes a somewhat basic knowledge of Photoshop CS5, and hence is not a complete tutorial, only a guide. There are approximately 5,800 words, but don't worry: they are split into sections so you can skip the easier topics.

The guide will constantly update over time as I develop new skills and techniques.

Prerequisites:

Adobe Reader 8.0 or newer
Adobe Photoshop CS5 (trial version may do)
CrazyBump (optional, but highly recommended: trial version)

Creating authentic Pipboy Icons for weapons.

Sat, 30 Jul 2011 21:42:01 +0000

Good day forum,

I noticed quite a while ago that, although a lot of great weapon mods exist for Fallout 3 and NV, none used any Fallout style pipboy icons we all came to know and love and only a few use Icons at all, mostly a cut-out of the weapon in question. Immersion is a great aspect of Fallout and I felt the need to preserve it. So I present to you a tutorial I created for Fallout 3. It's quite large but this mostly due to being aimed at even the most basic of beginners.

Requirements:
- Photoshop;
- Fo3EDIT or G.E.C.K.;

Download now also available at the Underground!

NOTE: Version 1.2 since I made a mistake in the tutorial which ended up still showing black edges in the Pipboy instead of being transparent. Remember to always save your icon as .PSD so these kinds of mistakes can easily be rectified!
Extra. Download link: http://fallout3nexus...le.php?id=16526

A Nexus account is required. It contains both the tutorial in .PDF format aswel as 5 blank template stances for you to create your icon on (if the demand for more is needed, I will comply to).

I hope this tutorial helps color in your weapons experience in Fallout and helps tailor in the immersion of Fallout. If you have any helpful critique please feel free to leave it since this is my first tutorial for Fallout.

Good bye and good luck

Texturing New Weapons in Photoshop - Part 2

Fri, 01 Jul 2011 08:36:35 +0000

Texturing New Weapons in Photoshop Dazzerfong

Part 1 focuses on creating the basic outlay of the weapon, along with gradients, layer styles and the basic texture. This portion will attempt to some subtle but very important decals and stains that will change the way your weapon looks without making it into a completely rusted weapon (which is impossible for most guns since they're mainly aluminium or plastic these days).

Tools: Adobe Photoshop CS5: I highly stress that you use Adobe Photoshop CS5: the trial version only needs a reinstall every month or so. It offers so many more features that GIMP unfortunately lacks.
nVidia Texture Tools for Photoshop
Millenia's Brushes (highly recommended)

Before we start:

To this point, I expect that the basic texture of the gun is finished: the topology and the rest are finished. If you haven't finished, please finish it before continuing here.

Grunge:

In the simplest terms, grunge is used to define 'damage' on mostly metallic textures: it also works on plastic, but the rule with plastic is that it should be much more subtle. Millenia's brushes could be used to great effect to add this effect. Here's a comparison with and without grunge:

Without grunge:

With grunge:

One very important rule with grunge: too much makes it look bad. Subtlety, remember, subtlety.

1. Create a new layer. Set the layer type to 'Overlay'.
2. Select the Brush tool:

3. On the left of the 'Mode' button near the top, click on the icon that looks like a folder.
4. Open up the key designated below, and choose Millenia's. Choose 'yes'

5. Now, select whichever design you like and paint away! I'd advise choosing the brushes with large sizes.
6. When you're finished, go to Layer -> Layer Mask -> From Transparency. Now, the layer would have two thumbnails on the Layer panel. The right hand side controls the transparency of it, with black being invisible, white being 100% visible, and so on so forth. The left hand side controls the colors itself. Now, click on the right hand side thumbnail, choose a different brush, and brush away so the patches of colors are random.
7. Repeat with different color combinations, brush types, etc.

This is something I can't really teach you: it's different for all textures, with some textures demanding more grunge, and some with less. Experience will teach you quite a bit here.

Scratches:

Scratches, whether your weapon is plastic or metal, is omnipresent in most decent textures. They add a lot of character to the texture, and can be used to enhance the transition between edges.

Luckily, edges are relatively easy to create. All you need is are several new layers (for varying depth), one brush set, and a lot of patience!

1. Choose a brush which is related to the creation of scratches: the ones I selected above, with the numbers 10, 11, 9 and 1 are the ones.
2. On edges, basically 'brush' over the edges. Make sure the color of the brush is set to pure white, and the opacity somewhere between 30-50, as well as the layer type to 'Overlay'.
3. When you're done, we're now going to add a subtle scratch effect to every part of the gun. Select the brush with the 10 beside it, as shown above, with the two vertical lines. Start a new layer, set the layer type to 'Overlay', then brush all over the place. When it's all over the place, set the opacity to the level were it's just visible, but very subtle. Again, it varies between textures, so there's no correct value.

Adjustment Layers:

After finishing off the texture, you might realize that your texture is too dark, or in most cases, too bright. Rather than manually changing each texture to be darker or brighter, use an Adjustment Layer!

1. Click on Layer -> Adjustment Layer -> Brightness and Contrast.
2. Click on that thumbnail with the Sun in the Layers panel. A new panel will pop up.
3. Adjust the layer's brightness and contrast!

Some tips for adjustment layers:

1. You can isolate certain areas for adjusting! Just select the area with the Selection tools before you create the new Adjustment Layer
2. Legacy mode forcibly reduces all pixel values with the value you want. Only use it when you have a lot of pure whites and pure blacks on your texture.

Noise and Smudging:

When your texture starts to have a lot of gradients, as well as the texture becoming darker, you might spot some banding (ie. visible lines) on the gradients. You can use noise to cover it up, but to truly get rid of it, you have to smudge it as well.

1. Create a new layer, set layer style to 'Overlay', and check the option 'Fill with Overlay-neutral gray'.
2. With that layer selected, go to Filter -> Noise -> Add noise. It doesn't really matter if it's Gaussian or Uniform, but remember to check the Monochromatic option. I'd advise using 5% first, then increasing if banding still occurs.
3. Create a new layer with the default settings, then use the Smudge tool:

4. Check the 'Sample all Layers' options, and I highly recommend that you set the Strength to 10%

5. Now, go to the problematic areas with a lot of noise, then smudge! Remember, go along with the grain, ie. if the texture's longitudinal, go sideways.

Smudging the layers should always be done when you're completely finished.

Conclusion:

Now that our texture has some decals, scratches, and what not, our texture's pretty much finished! All that's left is refining and more improvements: when that's finished, you're set!

Unless there's a lot of things I missed out, this should be the final tutorial. Thank you for reading!

Texturing New Weapons in Photoshop - Part 1

Fri, 01 Jul 2011 03:31:37 +0000

Texturing New Weapons in Photoshop Dazzerfong

In my previous tutorials, I focused on creating new weapons in Blender. Now that the model's finished, it needs textures. However, for some reason, many think that texturing is extremely difficult. It's not, it's just tedious. This tutorial focuses on texturing new weapons in Photoshop CS4 or 5 only.

Tools: Adobe Photoshop CS5: I highly stress that you use Adobe Photoshop CS5: the trial version only needs a reinstall every month or so. It offers so many more features that GIMP unfortunately lacks.
nVidia Texture Tools for Photoshop
Millenia's Brushes (highly recommended)

Exporting the UV Map and Opening it in Photoshop:

Before you open up Photoshop and start texturing, you'll need to first import the UV Map. There are various tutorials, all searchable through Google, which allows you to do that.

Creating the Base Texture:

The base texture is essentially the texture without any significant specular highlights. It serves as the foundations for your texture.

1. Select an area of the part you want to work with first. You can use Blender to check the corresponding parts:

To select this part in Photoshop, you have two options:

1. Use the Magic Wand tool, select the faces of the part, then press Select (it's on the top bar) -> Modify -> Expand. Choose 1 pixel for the time being.

2. Use the Marquee tool, roughly select the part around it, then use the Magic Wand tool to deselect (press Alt while doing this to deselect) area you don't need. This only works for isolated parts.

2. Now, I've selected the part. See the dashes around it? That's an indication of the area you selected!

Before we set the texture down, remember that for each individual part, we should create a new layer. You don't need to, but I heavily stress this action. To create a new layer, press Shift - Ctrl - N. I like to name my layers A - Z, 1 - 999. You can name it whatever you like.

3. Now that you created a new layer, select the Bucket Tool:

To put it in the simplest terms, the Bucket tool either applies paint to an entire area selected if empty or with similar colors. You should be able to see two colors on the toolbar below: choose a color for the top one (the bottom one's irrelevant in most cases):

Select the color closest to the one you want, then use the Bucket Tool and click on that area you selected:

Now, repeat that for all the other parts. It's arduous, but that's life. For any minor details like a small bump, just cover the entire thing: we'll work on it later.

One important note: surfaces that are bending upwards and away (or downwards and towards you) from you tend to be brighter than the perpendicular faces. Surfaces that are bending downwards and away (or upwards and towards you) are darker. It's part of the illusion to maintain that your texture has depth.

Layer Styles:

Layer styles are extremely crucial to the development of the texture. They can range from engraving parts onto the texture to making it appear as if a groove popped out.
Using this feature, we can create grooves, bumps, and pretty much whatever you like that involves depth perception.

1. See how the mesh grooves out naturally on the mesh? Well, select those parts in Photoshop, like this:

2. Create a new layer (I like the call it (base layer name) Details (order no.), then Paint Bucket it the same color as its corresponding base texture.
3. Now, with that layer selected, press Layer (look up!) -> Layer Style -> Bevel and Emboss. A menu like this will pop up: note how the texture appears to be 3D now:

Right now, it looks a bit fake, right? Select the 'Style' to 'Emboss', then play around with the other settings: they're pretty self-explanatory.

4. It kinda looks blocky below, don't you think?

To fix that, press Filter (again, look above)-> Blur -> Gaussian Blur. Play around the values until you get a good, smooth overall. Here;s what I have so far.

Gradients:

The Gradient tool is not unique to Photoshop, but it features a wide array of useful features that I will discuss when needed. However, it is very useful for creating the illusion of circular objects, such as barrels. I'll use the handgrip as demonstrated to demonstrate its effect:

1. Select the base texture via the Magic Wand tool.
2. Create new layer. This time, set the Layer type to Overlay.
3. Right click on the Bucket Tool, and select the Gradient Tool.
4. Now, invert the palette color using the two arrow keys next to the colors. This will preserve your old color while allowing you to change it. Press on the new top color, and select pure white (FFFFFF on hex).

5. Select the Gradient tool, then click on the areas as designated:

6. Click on the area as designated below:

7. Now, click somewhere in the middle of your part, then drag it up to the top. Release, and voila!

Adjust the opacity to whatever you like to fit the area you want.

Conclusion: This ends Part 1 of the tutorial. The next parts will focus on creating seamless edges between angular faces, adding a metallic or plastic feel to the faces, and adding basic scratches. Until then, good hunting!

Change ESM to ESP

Tue, 07 Jun 2011 15:11:56 +0000

this tuto is for FNV but it seems to me it's the FO3 plugin working well for FO3

Well ,as many people ,i like to merge mods to have my big one and don't like to depend on many ESM

then ,you need FNV plugin instaled and working
you can find both FO3 and FNV here :
FO3 : http://www.fallout3n...ile.php?id=5104
FNV : http://www.newvegasn...le.php?id=39655

installation is simple,just follow the instuctions

then, open your esm and save it as : name.esp
it's done,you can move the ESM to a backup folder,it's the ESP ready to work

of course,you can change an ESP to an ESM ,as well as FOMM
you can also merge two esp (in one click too)
for other applications,contact the author of the pluggin or read the tuto
i only can speak about what i use.

i know it's another way with FOMM to convert ESM to ESP(what i used before) but it's really longer,with this plugin,you don't need to understand what's the matter,you do.

recomandations :
-keep in mind that some ESM are ESM cause they have to be and in this case, the conversion won't be 100%perfect.
-if your ESM had a BSA, you will have do decompress it(with fomm) and sometime to play in geck or to open nifskope for textures path.
-don't use it on original ESM of the game if you don't want to kill it.
-don't hesitate to contact me for some additional info,but if you read this, it mean you know what to do and why you do it.
-you use it at your own risk,remember to backup before.

credits : thanks to the creators of the plugin